sábado, 24 de mayo de 2008

NEW PRESERVATIVES FOR TODAY's COSMETICS

Worst news is to realize that your wife's facial cream is not properly preserved and has a foul odor......or that a moisturizer cream has contaminated intensive care patients in a Barcelona's Hospital in Spain. Many new trends for the GREEN drive have put many chemists to work in big Chemical corporations. Traditional preservatives like Formaldehyde donors, Parabens and Isothiazolones have been put aside to give way to natural preservatives, which unfortunately are still not completely defined and not necessarily safe nor effective. Some companies are moving to preservative-free formulations by using actives of a particular class that have known antimicrobial activity like Lactylates or using some ionic surfactants and thickeners that require much less preservatives.
The new trend that seams to be working are the blends that still include Parabens that are believed to be the safest yet in terms of toxicological and use tests. These include products like Clariant's Nipaguard POB, phenoxy ethanol and piroctone olamine and benzoic acid and a second one POM, that combines the two first components with methyl paraben. Lonza's counterpart are Optiphen BSP and BSB which are also aromatics. For a complete report see www.happi.com may2008.

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GREEN CHEMICALS

The Green Seal certification is granted by the organization with that name and has a great number of members contributing with the requirements to pass a raw material or a chemical product as "green". Generally for a material to be green, has to comply with a series of characteristics like: near neutral pH, low volatility, non combustible, non toxic to aquatic life, be biodegradable as measured by oxygen demand in accordance with the OECD definition.
Also the materials have to meet with toxicity and health requirements regarding inhalation, dermal and eye contact. There is also a specific list of materials that are prohibited or restricted from formulations, like ozone-depleting compounds and alkylphenol ethoxylates amongst others. Please go to http://www.greenseal.com/ for complete information on their requirements.
For information on current issues regarding green chemicals, see the blog from the Journalist Doris De Guzman, in the ICIS at: http://www.icis.com/blogs/green-chemicals/.
Certification is an important — and confusing — aspect of green cleaning. Third-party certification is available for products that meet standards set by Green Seal, EcoLogo, Energy Star, the Carpet & Rug Institute and others.
Manufacturers can also hire independent labs to determine whether a product is environmentally preferable and then place the manufacturer’s own eco-logo on the product; this is called self-certification. Finally, some manufacturers label a product with words like “sustainable,” “green,” or “earth friendly” without any third-party verification.
“The fact that there is not a single authoritative standard to go by adds to the confusion,” says Steven L. Mack M.Ed., director of buildings and grounds service for Ohio University, Athens, Ohio.
In www.happi.com of June 2008 edition, there is a report of Natural formulating markets that also emphasises the fact that registration of "green formulas" is very confused at present, due to lack of direction and unification of criteria and that some governmental instittion (in my opinion the EPA) should take part in this very important issue.