The best way to remove stains on your natural stones surfaces, is to avoid them.
As a spill occurs, blot the spill with a paper towel immediately; do not wipe the area since it will spread the spill and potential stain. Flush the area with plain water and mild soap and rinse several times to completely remove spill. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth. If the stain remains, then refer below to the procedure for stain removal that corresponds.
Stain Removal
The key to remove a stain from marble or stone, is to identify the type of stain. Investigate first as what caused the stain, where is it located, shape and color. Surface stain can often be removed by appropriate household cleaners; deeper stains that are absorbed or have penetrated the stone porous surface are more difficult to remove and may require an absorbent-solvent compound or a professional grade cleaner.
Cleaning Based on Stain Type
Oil or solvent based stains like cooking oil, motor oil, milky drinks, cosmetics,grease, tar and some inks, will darken the stone and normally must be dissolved so that the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. This can be done by using one of the following: alcohol, mineral spirit, acetone or a butyl based degreaser. Simply apply on stain, allow to dissolve stain and clean gently with a soft cloth. Absorb as much as possible then rinse with a neutral cleaner and water.
Organic based stains like coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings all cause a pinkish-brown stain that in many cases will disappear if the source of the stain is removed as soon as it occurs; outdoors, with the source quickly removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. In other cases and indoors, clean with a 12% Hydrogen Peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia. Handle all chemicals with due care.
Metal oxides like iron oxides, rust and corrosion stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts and nuts, cans, metal furniture. Copper and bronze objects leave stains that are dark green-amber. These stains are very difficult to remove since they get embedded and adsorbed inside the stone's veins. The best way to remove them is using a paste (called poultice), made with an absorbent powder like kaolin or silica gel and a mild acid to clean the oxide. The poultice is spread on the stained surface with a spatula, covered with a plastic film and allowed to absorb the stain for at least 12-24 hours. This operation can be repeated if needed; however some deep stains may never be completely removed and sanding and buffing with steel wool may be necessary, followed by polishing or crystallization.
Biological or Organic stains, like mildew, mold, moss, algae, musk or fermented food residues can be removed using a solution of 1 cup of chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of water. You could also use the same dilution with an ammonia cleaner but this may have an unpleasant odor and is very harmful if it comes in contact with bleach.
Ink or Paint. Water based stains will be easily removed with a water based degreaser or a neutral cleaner. Oil based stains have to be removed with a solvent based paint stripper, acetone or lacquer thinner. Also use a wood or plastic scraper if necessary to remove stains. NEVER USE CAUSTIC PRODUCTS OR STRONG ACIDS TO REMOVE STAINS since they will damage or opaque the gloss of the stone and will require repolishing or recrystallization.
lunes, 5 de mayo de 2008
MARBLE CARE AND CLEANING
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GREEN CHEMICALS
The Green Seal certification is granted by the organization with that name and has a great number of members contributing with the requirements to pass a raw material or a chemical product as "green". Generally for a material to be green, has to comply with a series of characteristics like: near neutral pH, low volatility, non combustible, non toxic to aquatic life, be biodegradable as measured by oxygen demand in accordance with the OECD definition.
Also the materials have to meet with toxicity and health requirements regarding inhalation, dermal and eye contact. There is also a specific list of materials that are prohibited or restricted from formulations, like ozone-depleting compounds and alkylphenol ethoxylates amongst others. Please go to http://www.greenseal.com/ for complete information on their requirements.
For information on current issues regarding green chemicals, see the blog from the Journalist Doris De Guzman, in the ICIS at: http://www.icis.com/blogs/green-chemicals/.
Certification is an important — and confusing — aspect of green cleaning. Third-party certification is available for products that meet standards set by Green Seal, EcoLogo, Energy Star, the Carpet & Rug Institute and others.
Manufacturers can also hire independent labs to determine whether a product is environmentally preferable and then place the manufacturer’s own eco-logo on the product; this is called self-certification. Finally, some manufacturers label a product with words like “sustainable,” “green,” or “earth friendly” without any third-party verification.
“The fact that there is not a single authoritative standard to go by adds to the confusion,” says Steven L. Mack M.Ed., director of buildings and grounds service for Ohio University, Athens, Ohio.
In www.happi.com of June 2008 edition, there is a report of Natural formulating markets that also emphasises the fact that registration of "green formulas" is very confused at present, due to lack of direction and unification of criteria and that some governmental instittion (in my opinion the EPA) should take part in this very important issue.
Also the materials have to meet with toxicity and health requirements regarding inhalation, dermal and eye contact. There is also a specific list of materials that are prohibited or restricted from formulations, like ozone-depleting compounds and alkylphenol ethoxylates amongst others. Please go to http://www.greenseal.com/ for complete information on their requirements.
For information on current issues regarding green chemicals, see the blog from the Journalist Doris De Guzman, in the ICIS at: http://www.icis.com/blogs/green-chemicals/.
Certification is an important — and confusing — aspect of green cleaning. Third-party certification is available for products that meet standards set by Green Seal, EcoLogo, Energy Star, the Carpet & Rug Institute and others.
Manufacturers can also hire independent labs to determine whether a product is environmentally preferable and then place the manufacturer’s own eco-logo on the product; this is called self-certification. Finally, some manufacturers label a product with words like “sustainable,” “green,” or “earth friendly” without any third-party verification.
“The fact that there is not a single authoritative standard to go by adds to the confusion,” says Steven L. Mack M.Ed., director of buildings and grounds service for Ohio University, Athens, Ohio.
In www.happi.com of June 2008 edition, there is a report of Natural formulating markets that also emphasises the fact that registration of "green formulas" is very confused at present, due to lack of direction and unification of criteria and that some governmental instittion (in my opinion the EPA) should take part in this very important issue.
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ESTIMADO SR. MALAGUTI: MUCHO LE AGRADECERIA ME INFORMARA COMO QUITAR UNA MANCHA PRODUCIDA POR LA ORINA DE MI PERRITO EN UN SILLON TAPIZADO. MUCHAS GRACIAS POR SU AYUDA. LO SALUDA MUY CORDIALMENTE: SUSANA
Si es tela, utlice detergente lavaplatos con esponja y luego recoja exceso de jabon con la esponja humeda,limpie y deje secar.
Si es cuero, utilice un producto con lanolina o crema tipo NIVEA para la limpieza de la piel.
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